Tuesday, May 15, 2012

First Thoughts in Japan


After our brief time in Kyoto, I could already sense the strong pride that the Japanese people feel about being Japanese. This impression was so different from what I noticed in Taiwan and China.
In Beijing, I was consistently confused about what I was seeing and worried about making a generalization because my view was so limited (Beijing does not represent all of China). We saw the rundown downtown area, the New York-Esque shopping street near the night markets, the built-up high rises and financial district where the Olympic buildings were also placed, the hutongs ranging from well kept to poverty stricken, along with ancient temples and sites to see. I kept getting the feeling that there was a part of Beijing that we were supposed to see as tourists, and part that gets shown off to others to show the greatness of China, and a part that is generally kept hidden and can only really be stumbled upon by those wandering through, searching for alternate parts of culture. There was a clear eagerness to be on par with the Western world along with a part of the country that is lagging behind.

In Taipei, there was a wonderfully eclectic and lively feel about the city. It made Taiwan seem entirely welcome and embracing. The influence of democracy and western culture was also clear not only in the buildings and companies, but in our interactions with the universities and the natives. They were eager to come to the United States and learn about our culture, while also excited to teach us about theirs. There was a lot of pride in the opportunities that were available in Taiwan – they seemed eager to show us how similar Taiwan is to the United States, but also how much more there is in Taiwan. The pride was in how similar and successful both countries could be rather than in the native culture of Taiwan or China.

In Japan, the atmosphere is extremely different. There is power and order apparent in the city of Kyoto. The architecture is strong and stark, though often creative in an intricate but functional way. There is structure and formality in every action and interaction. There is a clear display of respect and hierarchy. But most importantly, there is no desire to be like the west. The Japanese are Japanese and that’s that…and it works. The cities are clean and organized, they’re well off economically, and their businesses are successful. They aren’t about to change any time soon. They may be welcoming and accommodating, but not to bring in change – it’s just to make a connection and continue on.

The whole comparison reminds me of a comment one of the Dow employees made when we visited: If you want a country that will be completely open to accepting changing and adapting to your corporate culture, go to China. If you want a country that will nod and say yes to your changes while implementing none of them, go to Japan.

Andy noted that many of the young people are more susceptible to change and are becoming more liberal, but even then change happens a generation at a time. It may be a stronger change as it will become engrained in the culture of Japan from the tart, but it is still a slow change. I’m not sure which is better: quick change that comes with impermanence and opposition or slow change that finishes with all parties on board?

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