The first thing I noticed about the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall was how much it looked like the Lincoln Memorial
in Washington, D.C. Carol told us later that President Lincoln was a favorite
of Chiang. The second things I noticed were the inscriptions along the walls in
Chinese characters. I asked Carol what they meant. The first were the words
Ethics, Democracy, and Science. Chiang used these principles to fight against
the communist party and work to unify China. He was a member of the nationalist
party (Kuomintang or KMT) in China, but was also urged by the western countries
(specifically the United States) to democratize. The second inscriptions
instruct readers to continuously improve the life of humanity and to sustain
life in the universe. The third inscription is Chiang’s will, challenging
readers to continue his legacy and always look back in to history as they
continue in to the future.
As we began to explore the ground level of the Hall and go through the
museum, Andy explained to us some of the history and dynamics of the
Chinese-Taiwanese conflict and how Japan fit in to the mix. What he found most
interesting was that if Japan hadn’t invaded China, there may never have been
communism in China because Chiang and his troops would have been able to fight
strongly and successfully against Mao. But this was not the case. Japan invaded
and Chiang retreated to Taiwan, hoping Mao would tire out his troops against
Japan and allow Chiang to sweep through and take control. Instead, Mao became
battle hungry and the plan backfired.
We also discussed the White Terror, a movement by many different
governments in their respective countries to eliminate communism. In China and
Taiwan, the White terror was led by Chiang Kai-Shek. There was a huge massacre
in Shanghai following the push through all of China. On Taiwan, any people even
thought to oppose KMT would disappear. This included communists, liberals for
the democratization of Taiwan, Chinese mainlanders who had escaped to Taiwan,
and many of Taiwan’s social and intellectual elite. It was this act that left
many Taiwanese bitter towards the Chinese mainland, communism, and Chiang
Kai-Shek.
It is curious to me that two of the words inscribed on the walls of the
upper level of the hall are Ethics and Democracy. It was not until Chiang’s
son, Chiang Ching-kuo and later Lee Teng-hui came in to power that democracy
was really instated in Taiwan. Additionally, it seems hardly possible that
ethics was something considered by Chiang Kai-Shek as he moved through the
Chinese mainland, brutally purging it of communists and later doing the same
(or worse) on the island of Taiwan. Perhaps it was Chiang’s view that
anti-communism was ethical (a very ends-justify-the-means, utilitarian approach
to ethically removing communism, though it may be), but once it came to
destroying all opposition to KMT I feel the ethics of the matter were entirely
lost.
It seems strange to me, then, that these two phrases would be elected to
be inscribed on a memorial hall for Chiang Kai-shek. He did a lot to develop
Taiwan and create success for the country, but a brutal history trails behind
him. This thought also makes it curious that the inscription of his will would
instruct readers to always remember the past as they move forward. It seemed
like subtle way of cherishing how far Taiwan had come while also reminding
visitors of the terror that came with this progress despite how little the real
history is discussed in actuality (we discussed also how many Taiwanese will
not discuss the Chinese-Taiwanese conflict and the White Terror beyond an
academic setting—it won’t simply come up in conversation on the streets).
We also discussed that there would never be a public reconciliation for
what had happened beyond the public apology from Lee Teng-hui in 1995. This
just seems to continue to speak to the reality of how little the conflict is
discussed. The hope is that it will simply fade in to history as Taiwan moves
forward and becomes more successful. This, again, seemed so contradictory to
the inscription in the Memorial Hall. To take it further, as we exited the bus
to enter Taipei 101, we crossed paths with a group of protestors holding
pamphlets and signs displaying the horrible injuries that were inflicted during
the White Terror. Andy told a few of us that they would set up near the tower
so that they could catch the mainland tourists as they exited their busses.
There would be no way for the mainlanders to avoid the information. This if
nothing else seemed like a cry for reconciliation, an act of remembrance, and a
case of the people taking the issue to the streets—beyond academic discussion.
The unrest of the issue seemed clear to me. It makes me worried—or
hopeful—for what might happen in the future. The conflict can’t possibly stay
repressed forever. But then again, with the culture of saving face and staying
quiet, it might.
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