Chiang Kai-Shek and the Chinese-Taiwanese Conflict

The first thing I noticed about the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall was  how much it looked like the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C. Carol told us later that President Lincoln was a favorite of Chiang. The second things I noticed were the inscriptions along the walls in Chinese characters. I asked Carol what they meant. The first were the words Ethics, Democracy, and Science. Chiang used these principles to fight against the communist party and work to unify China. He was a member of the nationalist party (Kuomintang or KMT) in China, but was also urged by the western countries (specifically the United States) to democratize. The second inscriptions instruct readers to continuously improve the life of humanity and to sustain life in the universe. The third inscription is Chiang’s will, challenging readers to continue his legacy and always look back in to history as they continue in to the future.

As we began to explore the ground level of the Hall and go through the museum, Andy explained to us some of the history and dynamics of the Chinese-Taiwanese conflict and how Japan fit in to the mix. What he found most interesting was that if Japan hadn’t invaded China, there may never have been communism in China because Chiang and his troops would have been able to fight strongly and successfully against Mao. But this was not the case. Japan invaded and Chiang retreated to Taiwan, hoping Mao would tire out his troops against Japan and allow Chiang to sweep through and take control. Instead, Mao became battle hungry and the plan backfired.

We also discussed the White Terror, a movement by many different governments in their respective countries to eliminate communism. In China and Taiwan, the White terror was led by Chiang Kai-Shek. There was a huge massacre in Shanghai following the push through all of China. On Taiwan, any people even thought to oppose KMT would disappear. This included communists, liberals for the democratization of Taiwan, Chinese mainlanders who had escaped to Taiwan, and many of Taiwan’s social and intellectual elite. It was this act that left many Taiwanese bitter towards the Chinese mainland, communism, and Chiang Kai-Shek.

It is curious to me that two of the words inscribed on the walls of the upper level of the hall are Ethics and Democracy. It was not until Chiang’s son, Chiang Ching-kuo and later Lee Teng-hui came in to power that democracy was really instated in Taiwan. Additionally, it seems hardly possible that ethics was something considered by Chiang Kai-Shek as he moved through the Chinese mainland, brutally purging it of communists and later doing the same (or worse) on the island of Taiwan. Perhaps it was Chiang’s view that anti-communism was ethical (a very ends-justify-the-means, utilitarian approach to ethically removing communism, though it may be), but once it came to destroying all opposition to KMT I feel the ethics of the matter were entirely lost.

It seems strange to me, then, that these two phrases would be elected to be inscribed on a memorial hall for Chiang Kai-shek. He did a lot to develop Taiwan and create success for the country, but a brutal history trails behind him. This thought also makes it curious that the inscription of his will would instruct readers to always remember the past as they move forward. It seemed like subtle way of cherishing how far Taiwan had come while also reminding visitors of the terror that came with this progress despite how little the real history is discussed in actuality (we discussed also how many Taiwanese will not discuss the Chinese-Taiwanese conflict and the White Terror beyond an academic setting—it won’t simply come up in conversation on the streets).

We also discussed that there would never be a public reconciliation for what had happened beyond the public apology from Lee Teng-hui in 1995. This just seems to continue to speak to the reality of how little the conflict is discussed. The hope is that it will simply fade in to history as Taiwan moves forward and becomes more successful. This, again, seemed so contradictory to the inscription in the Memorial Hall. To take it further, as we exited the bus to enter Taipei 101, we crossed paths with a group of protestors holding pamphlets and signs displaying the horrible injuries that were inflicted during the White Terror. Andy told a few of us that they would set up near the tower so that they could catch the mainland tourists as they exited their busses. There would be no way for the mainlanders to avoid the information. This if nothing else seemed like a cry for reconciliation, an act of remembrance, and a case of the people taking the issue to the streets—beyond academic discussion.

The unrest of the issue seemed clear to me. It makes me worried—or hopeful—for what might happen in the future. The conflict can’t possibly stay repressed forever. But then again, with the culture of saving face and staying quiet, it might. 

The Palace Museum and Ancient History

I always seem to forget just how old Asia culture is. We went to the Palace Museum and the pieces on display stretched way back to before the Common Era. But the techniques and designs never seemed rudimentary. They were working with chemistry (whether or not it was known to be chemistry) to age bronze, writing and recording analects on how to control water, painting with textures from fabric to fur, and clearly displaying emotion long before many of the more modern countries were even beginning to get started. There was so much to take in. It really made me realize how young the United States are. But also, it made me realize how removed Asia is from the rest of the world. When learn about art and religious history, we lump most of the word in to a progressive category, analyzing art and culture as it develops and spreads from its roots to neighboring countries and around the world. On the contrary, East Asian countries like China are given a completely separate and isolated category. The intricate artwork of China began in China and remained there. Their discoveries and records didn’t leave the country. Even in theatre history, we learn about East Asian theatre as a completely different tract than the rest of the world. Going through the museum was the first time I really focused on the deep separation of East Asia from the rest of the world. 

Dinner at the Grand Hotel

 I am unsure what I concluded from the dinner at the Grand Hotel.

It was definitely a chance to see how hard the students in Taiwan worked. As Dr. Liu described, his students would often get up at 5:30am and go to school until 9:00pm. Then they would go home and do homework until about midnight. Much of the work they did until 9:00pm was outside of the normal school day. This work consisted of workshops and classes to improve on their English – literature, drama, conversation, art, music, etc. Further, parents often do not get to see their children—and they simply accept this fact. If their children work hard, they will be better than the other children thus bringing honor to their families and saving face. Parents believe that their children’s long hours and hard work are necessary sacrifices in for this honor. They want their children to be the best that they can be.

I also couldn’t help but feel a little out of place as we continued to talk. I am a theatre major. Although I am taking management and Spanish language courses, I am planning to go in to the entertainment business. I sat at a table of other students who had prospects in Taiwan. Teaching students, nursing students, law students, business and accounting – they all seemed to have some degree that they could pursue in Taiwan or some way in which they could benefit from coming to teach in Taiwan. I didn’t feel like the same applied to me and the career I am pursuing. Ming Chuan in Taiwan didn’t even really have an art program. There were other universities that had art programs, but we didn’t hear much about them. It was simply something Carol mentioned in passing. Perhaps I was making myself feel uncomfortable by thinking too hard about what was being said or trying to find too much meaning in what was happening, but either was I found it difficult to dive in to the excitement that the others seemed to be feeling about studying abroad in Taiwan. 

Baoan Temple

I feel as if I missed out with Baoan Temple. I had a hard time understanding the tour guide, making it difficult to remain focused. I understood that it was an amalgamation of different religious beliefs with many gods to pray for about different things. What I missed were the explanations about rituals and symbolism behind the different paintings and decorations.

We did talk about Yin and Yang – the most prominent examples were the crescent prayer blocks and the bamboo barred windows. It was really exciting to see the religious elements we discussed in class actually used by the natives and to understand how they worked.

I would like to return to some of the Taipei temples and learn more about the architecture, layouts, decorations, and elements that are present. The display was so intricate and eclectic – it would be interesting to compare deeper to the other temples we visited in Beijing and will visit in Japan. 

Upon Arriving in Taipei

Taiwan reminds me of what I think Beijing would look like in ten years. The buildings were crammed on to the streets. There was an eclectic mash of colors, styles, signs, and languages. There were logos that we recognized and some that we did not. There were cars, people, and scooters everywhere. You could feel the rush of the city before even exiting the bus. But it wasn’t a hectic busy like Beijing—it was just a city and it was lively.

We made an analogy as well: Beijing is to New York as Taipei is to Toronto. Beijing was big, busy, and built up. It was very white in color but it was dusty at the same time. It felt manmade. Taipei was different. It was still clearly a city, but it fit so perfectly in to the mountains and the landscape that it didn’t seem out of place. There were trees everywhere and it seemed natural and inviting. It even had Taipei 101 to imitate Toronto’s CN Tower.

The temples are so much more ornate than in Beijing. Beijing was wonderfully painted and well kept. With everything so immense and intentionally placed the importance, power, and majesty of each location was deeply apparent. In Taipei, the intricacy of the colors and designs were the more eye catching aspects of the temples – especially Baoan. The decorations were beautiful and breathtaking, but there was so much to look at that it was hard to take it all in. 

Defining Culture

The Pearl Market, though not a traditional aspect of Chinese culture, was an exciting and eclectic experience. We walked in the door and there were vendors grabbing at us and calling to us trying to sell us cheap, worthless trinkets that were little related to anything truly Chinese—just junk you could enjoy for twenty minutes and then throw away because it broke.

What were even more shocking were the stalls upon stalls of counterfeit items like DVDs, video games, jerseys, and electronics. The government doesn’t regulate these items in China so they are easy to sell and rampant. I almost felt guilty watching the group and other tourists support the counterfeit culture. We are constantly searching for cheap things and will do anything to cut a deal. The vendors were clearly aware that we would buy anything as long as it was cheap and they played to that.

I wasn’t sure if I was more worried that the beautiful, ancient Chinese culture was falling prey to Western capitalism, or that our western culture was falling prey to the Chinese’ understanding of the way we function. Either way, the relationship seems unhealthy. Kyle told me of a family that goes on vacation to China with empty suitcases specifically so they can buy cheap Christmas and birthday presents, and with all the money they spend on the trip and vacation, they still save money on the cost of gift shopping, so they do it every year. Stories like that scare me and make me wonder where we’re headed and which culture will suffer the greatest loss (or if there will even be a loss at all). 

Lost Luxury

The vast size of Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven took my breath away. The intricacy of detail and color and the immensity of the structures (considering they used no nails!) are just incredible. I could only imagine what it would be like to see these places in their glory.

At the same time, it seems like intense luxury with no sentimental value. The young emperors lived in this giant, beautiful palace…alone. They were puppets to the Empress Dowager and were deprived of interaction with other children and the outside world – they deprived of many of the things that create what we consider childhood.

Our guide today talked about the emperor and his concubines – how he was “busy” because there were so many and he would often have to stop before he got through them all. It all struck me as so very empty. All of the women throwing themselves at the emperor in hope that they might bear his child and bring honor to their families, the emperor jumping from concubine to concubine simply out of duty rather than actual enjoyment or desire. Further, the Empress Dowager making decisions behind a screen in order to bestow power on the emperor and still get her way, the eunuchs, serving the emperor castrated so that he could be the only man in the palace, the emperor not even eating more than three bites of each meal so that no one could poison him.

I know that the ritual and honor of it all and the collectivist way of life is all part of the Chinese culture, but I can’t ignore the emptiness of it all. I feel that I would be lost in the endless luxury – luxury that hardly seems like it was ever actually enjoyed. It seems it would often be more of a burden than an honor and that the true glory of the buildings and the way of life would be lost.

As I write this, though, I am wondering if I am getting everything out of these paces as I could be due to the rush and the crowds. I feel that I miss a lot and cannot simply take everything in that would like to. Perhaps I was disillusioned going in – expecting something great and full of revelation. I keep hoping all of these things will culminate to one great, deeper meaning. The hope makes it seem as if I am over analyzing what I am seeing while I search for meaning. I’m not sure what the real answer is.